Black Sea, Kvariati

Seaside

We spent the day relaxing at the seaside in Kvariati, a small sea resort in southwest Georgia, near the Turkish border. Surrounded by verdant mountains and tropical vegetation, Kvariati is the idyllic family getaway.

DSC_0070

Warm and partly cloudy. Perfect weather for a day at the sea.

DSC_0195

We ate lunch at the well-known “Up & Down” restaurant in Batumi with family friends.

DSC_0185

Georgie, drunk on Sandora cherry juice, pirouetted on the patio to loud music coming from a Ukrainian? Russian? party inside the restaurant. She spinned her way to the dance floor grabbing a few admirers along the way. Partygoers clapped as Georgie danced her five minutes of fame away.

DSC_0219

After we attended a dolphin show in the heart of Batumi, we made a quick stop at a small amusement park in Kobuleti, another sea resort along the Black Sea.

This slideshow requires JavaScript.

Categories: Uncategorized | 1 Comment

Photographs

Luka Duka. Love this photo. Luka is a popular name in Georgia.

DSC_0017

But not nearly as popular as the name Mari (pronounced Maarey). I have met at least 10 girls in our apartment building named Maarey, not counting all the other Maareys I have yet to meet!

And I did not spray paint “Luka” on the wall, Giorgi.

******************************

“Georgie-Porgie, pudding and pie, kissed the [boys] and made them cry.”

DSC_0001

Georgie is a BIG flirt.

********************************

Coupled up for a train ride down the slide

DSC_0095

They did this at least 10x

DSC_0093

Where’s Luka? I guess he missed his ride.

********************************

Preparing Khadjapori in the village

DSC_0017 2

Nothing is more fun then getting messy… and getting away with it.

********************************

Luka, can you get out of the way?

DSC_0036

**************************

After a series of shots, I finally got these portraits!

DSC_0076

Hard to imagine that right before this shot was taken, Luka was pulling his shirt up, baring his chest, and laughing.

DSC_0085

Categories: Uncategorized | 4 Comments

Rain, Rain, Go Away, Come Again Some Other Day

It was a rainy weekend so we spent some quality family time indoors. I did my best to minimize television and iPads. We made a paper chain and decorated it with handmade ornaments.

DSC_0068

Georgie and Luka admiring their work.

DSC_0079

Closeup!

DSC_0075

From one wall to the other. We had fun decorating!

Categories: Uncategorized | Leave a comment

Goodbye (ნახვამდის) Mountains

Nakhvamdis! (translation: goodbye!)

Crazee boys

The Three Droogs

Alas, our departure is inevitable. I’m posting photos of our time well spent in the mountainside of Tsemi.

This slideshow requires JavaScript.

Goodbye friends, goodbye mountains, goodbye fresh air and railroad tracks, good bye old swing, goodbye piroshki, goodbye rain, goodbye fir trees, goodbye host and hostess, goodbye to the boy next door, goodbye cows and chickens, goodbye early mornings and starry nights, goodbye to our friends next door that we didn’t get to see this summer, goodbye zuzuna, goodbye Gumani, goodbye to hanging out in the garage, goodbye mud, goodbye hide-n-seek, goodbye balcony, goodbye roasted nuts, goodbye green table, goodbye fresh raspberry compote, goodbye sweet watermelon, goodbye candy from Ellen’s mom, goodbye bees that don’t really sting but are everywhere, goodbye little sergeant Giorgi who was sad to see Ilia go, goodbye benches, goodbye fried eggs that I like to eat in the morning, goodbye Turkish coffee, goodbye big yard, goodbye cream of wheat in the mornings that the kids did not like to eat, goodbye nights with friends, goodbye lost legos, goodbye quad, goodbye Luka’s bestest friend, mishiko, goodbye baby Ellen, goodbye bread and butter, goodbye rooms, goodbye everything Tsemi …

Categories: Uncategorized | 2 Comments

Vardzia

Welcome to Vardzia! A magnificent mountain dwelling carved out of Mount Erusheli in the early 12th century to resist Mongol invasion.

DSC_0030

The weather didn’t turn around as we had hoped. It was a cloudy and cool afternoon, but worked in our favor since we had to hike up Mount Erusheli to reach the caves. I didn’t realize how difficult the trip would be with kids. The caves are located on a steep mountain with safety rails as the only means of protection–a little frightening when you have kids that are highly active.

DSC_0001

A view of Vardzia. Not the best shot. My attention was so focused on my children that I missed out on what was going on in front of me. 

DSC_0066

A monastery complex made up of man-made caves and narrow tunnels; complete with an ancient irrigation system. You really don’t know what to expect when you follow a flight of stairs. They can lead anywhere–you have to be on your guard when children are present.

DSC_0042

The walls and ceilings are covered in thick black soot from the candles that once brought these incredible rooms to life.

DSC_0033

Before my visit, when I viewed photographs of Vardzia, I didn’t realize that the caves have a vast network of passageways and rooms that extend deep into the mountain. Apparently there is a whole city carved inside Mount Erusheli.

DSC_0061

Some apartments have carved windows and shelves. One room, in particular, caught my interest–honeycomb-like shelves carved into the wall. You have to wonder what was placed on those shelves in ancient times (if you look closely in the room at the top of the photograph, you can see shelves).

DSC_0038

Great view–generally the same view ancient cave dwellers had seen.

The monastery complex is built on a steep mountain overlooking the river. Your only protection: safety rails. Now imagine the complex without the rails…

DSC_0036

The church is an awesome sight. You wouldn’t know it exists by looking at the facade of the mountain. The church has a dome ceiling and frescoed walls, just like most churches in Georgia.

DSC_0035

A group of monks live here and take care of the site. We all lit a candle.

DSC_0064

The original wine cask.

DSC_0037

The Bell Tower to the right marks the entrance to the church.

DSC_0024

Another beautiful sight: my kids! Here’s what I remember most from our excursion: “Ilia get down from there!” “No Luka, stay where you are. Do not move!” “Georgie, where are you going!?”

DSC_0060

And another… Aren’t they cute!

I didn’t have time to take it all in because my attention was focused elsewhere–making sure my kids were not climbing over safety rails.  I don’t know about you, but I like to absorb everything I’m looking at. I need to stand in one place and imagine how alive this place once was. I even went so far as decorating one of the rooms in my head, until one of the kids cut my daydream short.  If only walls could talk, they would have plenty of fascinating stories to share!

Categories: Georgia, the country | 4 Comments

Dacha

We settled into our small dacha (Russian term for vacation, or second, home) in the mountainside of Tsemi. Manana reserved the same rooms we had last summer. The rooms are simple and clean giving me more charge to decorate it with our personal belongings. The kids are enjoying the big yard with their new friends, about 12 in all, not including the kids that occasionally visit from neighboring yards. Definitely an improvement from last year—there were only about six kids in the yard. The more the merrier!

This slideshow requires JavaScript.

Haven’t seen our friends from last year, who were staying in the house adjacent to us. Last summer, they assured us that they would make a yearly visit again in the summer. I’m hoping we will have the pleasure of catching them before we leave.

The weather has been, for the most part, cool with scattered rains. One exception: two clear, sunny days. We took advantage of one of those days to visit Borjomi, the famous mineral water springs. The weather forecast appears to be looking good tomorrow for an excursion to Vardzia–a cave monastery carved out of rock during Queen Tamar’s reign.

The underground halls of the ‘mountain queen,’ dug out of the solid rock, Vardzia looks like it was taken directly from the pages of Lord of the Rings. In reality it is a cave-palace-monastery built not by dwarfs, but by Georgians in the Caucasus for their fabled queen Tamar.

Source: http://www.atlasobscura.com/places/vardzia

It takes two and half hours to reach this magnificent fortress from Tsemi. Vardzia is currently on the list to becoming a UNESCO Heritage World Site.

 

Categories: Uncategorized | 2 Comments

Pechi-Man

When I arrived in Georgia, I had my kiln (pechi in Georgian) converted to Georgian voltage. We hired a guy to do the conversion. He created a power box that converts electricity from 120 volts (States) to 220 volts (Georgia). The device weighs more than my kiln!

Everytime this guy came over to examine or program the kiln, he would phone in ahead of time to say that he will arrive at 7pm but would not show up until after 9pm. “Where is this guy,” I asked Manana. According to Manana, “after 7pm” literally means anytime after 7. For all we know, he can show up at 11pm. For us, he became the Pechi-man.

Thereafter, Manana and I had a good laugh every time Pechi-man made a visit. He always popped up late in the evenings. At one point, we had not seen Pechi-man for days. I had just put the kids to bed when Manana said, “Pechi-man just called; he is coming over.” “Now!?,” I exclaimed, “It’s 10:30, why the late notice.” We burst out laughing.

On his final visit, he was explaining how to program the kiln (Manana had to translate) when he received a phone call and disappeared suddenly. Ten minutes passed. “What happened to Pechi-man? Where did he go?” We couldn’t hold back the laughter. I never saw Pechi-man again.

Once Pechi-man made the conversion box and programmed the kiln, I cleared a small workspace for all my items I bought in Tbilisi. Then I cleaned my enamels and placed each one in a small round plastic container labeled with a color code.

My new project: earrings. At first, I was discouraged when the fondant (base enamel, also known as flush) turned slightly yellow after I fired it. When I fired it again, the same thing occurred. Shota had warned me in the past that the fondant will turn yellow if the quality of the flush is not good. However, I felt that maybe I didn’t have my kiln temp high enough. Sure enough, I was right. I set the temp at a higher rate and the fondant came out crystal clear.

DSC_0038

A design I made. Above the earring is silver ribbon wire I work with to make filigrees. The wire is very delicate and requires a careful hand.

Then I began bending wire to make a filigree for my jewelry piece. Once I had my filigree, I placed it neatly on the earring and baked it at 1550 degrees Fahrenheit. Then I filled the filigree cells with enamel three times and fired it three times. The earrings didn’t come out as I had hoped but it was good practice.

NOTE: Tomorrow we are going to the mountains for ten days, the same place we visited last year. Our host and hostess were so excited to hear that we were returning this summer that they offered to pick us up. The moutainside is two and half hours away from Kutaisi. I’m hoping we will see our friends from last year. 

I brought books to read, silver wire to bend, and my three kids to keep me busy. I’m really excited to get away from Kutaisi and breathe some fresh mountain air!

Categories: Uncategorized | 6 Comments

TimeOut, Kutaisi

I spent two days in Tbilisi with family and friends, sans the kids. Our good friend, David, was heading back to Tbilisi and offered me a ride. It was a relaxing three-hour drive through the countryside. He stopped along the way to pick up coffee, drinks, khadjapori, and a basket full of fresh raspberries. When he dropped me off, he invited me to visit him and his wife, Tamuna, before I returned to Kutaisi.

My main reason for the trip: to purchase more supplies for my jewelry making. Shota, my jewelry instructor, offered to pick up the supplies on his next trip to Tbilisi, but he would not make that trip until the following week. Not to lose more time, I decided to get a head start. I asked Manana to phone her relatives in Tbilisi to see if they could accommodate me. To my fortunate surprise, Ani, Giorgi’s cousin, just got into town two days before. This all worked perfectly into my schedule!

The first time I visited Georgia, Ani was studying in England. She eventually met a Spanish guy in London, married, moved to Spain, and started a beautiful family (kids: Nico and Mia). During that period, I made several trips to Georgia and became well-acquainted with Ani’s sister, Sopo. So you can imagine how excited I was when I heard Ani was in town, even more excited to meet her. Afterall, I’m in love with her work.

Ani is an artist, much like her father. The only difference: Ani’s father paints beautiful scenes of country life in Georgia; Ani designs and creates beautiful jewelry, known in Georgia as Minankari (or what a jewelry connoisseur calls Cloissonne). Years ago, I remember Giorgi saying, “My cousin, Ani, is learning Minankari.” That was the second time the possibility of making Minankari crossed my mind. The first time, I waved the thought away because it sounded like a dream that never comes true. The second time around, however, I thought, “If she can do it, why can’t I.” My thoughts were right on, but my opportunity wouldn’t come until years later.

When the opportunity to learn Minankari became a reality, I instinctively thought of Ani. I emailed her about my interest in Minankari and asked if she could advise me on what type of kiln to purchase. She was very responsive and helpful.

Once I arrived in Tbilisi, Ani and I got along great. I asked Ani countless questions about her experience making Minankari jewelry: how does she come up with her designs, why does the glass (or enamel) occasionally crack, does she polish her tools by hand or with a polisher, what color enamels does she prefer to use: transparent/opaque, and how long did it take for her to feel comfortable making Minankari jewelry.

I love Ani’s jewelry because I can relate to her style: classically modern. She has been designing jewelry for the past five years and has produced some amazing pieces of art. The colors she chooses, the filigrees she creates, and the fine details in her work reveal her dedication and love for each ornament she produces. It must be hard to part with her work!

Ani and I spent well over two hours in the center choosing supplies. She was such a big help! The first floor of the building houses everything Minankari. The giant room contains numerous displays of glass jewelry cases: antique, modern, and Minankari jewelry. Towards the back of the building are shops that sell supplies to make Minankari. And in the very, very back are small workshops for designers, engravers, goldsmiths, silversmiths, etc.

Spending time with Ani and Sopo and their family in Tbilisi was a much needed break from Kutaisi. When Sopo returned home in the evening from work, we talked and talked well after midnight. The family is so kind and welcoming. I really enjoyed spending time with everyone. It is also nice, for a change, to speak English: not having to resort to sign language or Charades or talking to onself is relieving.

I also had the chance to visit David and Tamuna the next evening. (I know David from when he studied in the States; and Tamuna for eight years, ever since they got married.) They welcomed me with pastries, fresh bowls of fruit, tea, and juice on the patio in their backyard overlooking the city. The weather was warm with a cool breeze, enough to wear a light jacket. I didn’t take leave until 11:30pm; and when I returned home, Sopo, Ani and I talked and talked until the early morning. 

Categories: Uncategorized | 2 Comments

Happy Birthday, America!

July 4, 1776

th-2

Population: July 4, 1776 versus July 4, 2013

Then: 2.5 million people; Now: 316 million people

Sources: http://www.census.gov/popclock/

http://www.USA.gov

 

Categories: Uncategorized | 2 Comments

Big Top

Sunday, we took the kids to the circus. A small, intimate venue, and very entertaining. Plenty of performances to see: acrobats, trapeze acts, jugglers, clowns, animals, etc. We loved it!

DSC_0104

In California, Giorgi took the kids to see Circus Vargas and Luka was pulled on stage. This time, Ilia was part of a small clown act with two other kids.

DSC_0109

DSC_0105

DSC_0094

Categories: Georgia, the country | 4 Comments

Create a free website or blog at WordPress.com.